Hitchup & Go? 

Travel trailer, class A, or pop-up, taking your rig out of long term storage involves more than picking up and heading down the highway. 

There has (or will) come a time when your forced to keep your rig in extended storage. Usually it just creeps up on you, the kids schedules, job demands or just life in general keep you and your family away from camping. In our case, the 30’ Dutchmen that we purchased new in 1994 was off the road for nearly 6 years as our youngest daughter progressed through high school and the first years of college.

Late this summer we decided that it was time to start traveling again on weekends. Knowing that I could only work on it during my spare time I gave myself a 3 week window to get the trailer out of storage and ready to roll. I’m fortunate to have a well equipped hobbiest garage, and local access to a good RV shop if a task is beyond my capabilities. I suggest that before you take on any task that you think about the dreaded what ifs... What if you can’t do it yourself? What if you don’t have the right tools? What if it takes longer than planned?

Inspection

Look at your RV the way a buyer and a mechanic would. Forget about all the good times you had on past trips. Your job is to make sure that your rig is safe and sound for use. You’ll need a few basic things to make this task easier. A notepad, sticky notes, a flashlight, basic screwdrivers, a sturdy stepladder, a mechanics creeper or a big piece of cardboard.

Outside walk around

Start with a point on the exterior. On my Dutchmen I chose the hitch A-frame. Visually inspect everything and make notes on deficiencies and parts, supplies or special tools needed. After I removed the LP cover I discovered that my tanks were outdated and not useable, but they was still a significant amount of fuel left. The hoses and controls passed a visual inspection, but I noted the need for a system wide leak check.

When I put the rig in storage I removed the battery, and stored it in the garage. We planned to do some dry camping this fall so I noted the need for a new battery and storage box. (misplaced after a garage cleaning) The electrical connectors showed a bit of corrosion and will require cleaning. I later decided to add a second battery. more...

I looked over the weight distribution and sway controls and remembered the problems I had in the past with the u-bolts of the Reese Dual Cam sway control on the shorter A frame of the Dutchmen. I made a note to resolve this issue before the first trip. (read about the solution). I’ve used the same Reese system on two trailers and I have concluded that it is the best type of sway control for rig length and driving conditions. I tried friction type sway controls but found them not as effective as a properly adjusted hitch with the dual cam control.

Walk around the rig look closely at the fit of the panels and the condition of the sealer around the windows, hatches and doors.  Look for obvious gaps that would let moisture intrude. Check the condition of the rubber grommet covering all the mount screws. These get brittle with time and WILL work their way loose at the worst possible time. At highway speed they will make a mess out of your siding as well as scaring the dickens out of you when you hear them beating against the side of the rig.

Check the condition and cleanliness of water connections, fillers, and drains. If you have a storage bumper, put on a pair of rubber gloves and pull the hose out and check for excessive rust. Don’t be afraid to poke at the rust. Check on the fit of the bumper caps. It’s far better to have to fix any holes or loose caps now rather than having your hose fall out on the highway leaving the kids in the car behind you shrieking at the “snake” coming out of your rv. (been there, done that, got the t-shirt)

Check the condition of all plastic trim. If there is any cracking due to age and exposure to the sun consider replacing the items for both cosmetic and safety reasons.

Check the Dirty Side

Now it’s time to look underneath.  Make sure that your wheels are chocked and you are on level ground. I do my checks in two parts. In front of and behind the wheels. Here’s the procedure I use for the rear of the travel trailer. I lower the hitch jack as far as possible and then lower the rear stabilizers just enough to firmly press the ground to prevent the rear of the trailer moving while your underneath. Reverse the procedure for the front of the rig. Before you get down under make sure you are wearing eye protection.

Check the condition of the frame. If you have any doubts about any rust or other defects have a qualified RV mechanic or welding shop technician check it out for you.  This is one safety area you should not overlook. The frame is the base of the structural integrity of your RV.

Check any exposed wires for good connections and any possible missing insulation. Check the condition of the main LP gas feed. Note the location of all joints for leak checks.

Carefully inspect the waste water storage tanks and the mounting bolts (if exposed). Look for cracks and signs of leaks around the shutoffs and the associated plumbing.

Where the Rubber Meets the Road

The Dutchman is now 12 years old with under 20,000 miles on the highway, but the tires have been exposed to the hot summer sun, and winter long deep freezes as well as the spring thaw. All tough on the rubber of the tires. I was surprised at the depth of tread and the condition of the sidewall, but my sharp eyed mechanic caught deep cracks in between the tread when I sent the rig in for the brakes and bearing service. As it turns out the damage was limited to one area on each tire and the mechanic said I could probably get through the Fall trips without a problem, but I don’t like the thoughts of trying to replace a blowout on the side of the highway so I decided to replace the tires. I shopped around and found a good set of replacements for a reasonable cost and now I travel with a bit more confidence in my trailer.

Overall Exterior Condition

If you have a metal side trailer run your hand over the paint. It’s probably rough and chalky.  You’ve probably added a few scrapes or scratches as well over the years. Plan on a thorough hand washing and maybe a coat of wax to bring the finish back. Through trial and error I found a spray paint at the local True Value that matches trailer to refinish the water heater, and refrigerator covers. I also purchased a small can of paint in the same color for for all the exposed screws that had rusted and any minor scratches to the exterior skin.

Up, Up and Away

Using your step ladder check out the roof for cracks in the covering or sealers. Look for damage to all the roof mounted accessories especially plastic. Even though modern plastics are designed to withstand UV rays they will show damage eventually. Plan to repair or replace any damage now to prevent loss during travel and also to prevent water and wind damage to your roof structure or interior. While up at the roof level check the seam coating. Look for obvious cracks and faults. Depending on your roof material recoating the seams may be in order. It’s a easy procedure that only takes a short time to complete and it could prevent damage to your framing and interior.

If you have an awning roll it out one or two turns and check for damage to the first few inches. My awning fabric was in good overall condition except for the need of a good cleaning and some very small wear holes in the above mentioned area. After I looked over the whole awning structure including the mechanics I decided that I would thoroughly clean the awing, lubricate the parts where needed and apply awing repair tape to the damaged area. read more here

Light it up

I connected the trailer pigtail to the truck to check the condition of the lights. Replace and repair as needed. I found that a can of Radio Shack Control/Contact Cleaner & Lubricant (part #64-4315) very useful at removing corrosion from the light contacts and the bulb bases. I would suggest cleaning all lenses inside and out. I was amazed at how much brighter the lights were after cleaning. 

LP Leak Check

Do not light any appliances or do this check with any open flame or sparks present.

Start by making sure that all appliances are turned off. The time tested method of leak checking is to use a soapy water mixture on each LP joint and connection. I found that a plastic squeeze bottle with a 16 ounce capacity works best for me. I used an empty dish detergent bottle for the trailer although you can purchase a bottle at any hardware or supermarket.  I mix about 1 ounce of dish detergent with water to the fill line.

Make sure the bottle connections are tight and any valve set correctly. Turn on each bottle and squeeze a small amount of water over the connector and around the valve body itself. Look for small bubbles. If bubbles appear shut off the supply and double check the connection. Do not overly tighten as the added torque can damage the appliance. In my first check this year I found a faulty pigtail to the pressure regulator. After replacing the part retest and proceed to the connections on the pressure regulator.

Work along all exterior LP piping at each joint or connection until your satisfied. Then from the interior of the rig check each appliance in turn. 

DO NOT USE SEALERS OR TAPE TO TRY TO SOLVE ANY LEAK. It’s dangerous and will not last. The only method to stop persistent LP leaks is to REPLACE the part.

Water check,

Make sure all your domestic water drains are capped including the hot water heater drain. Visually check the connections to your demand pump or pressure system. Follow your manufacturers recommended procedure for sanitizing your water system. I follow the following steps for my system. Bleach is caustic to skin and clothing, make sure you wear old clothes and suitable hand and eye protection.

• Rinse the fresh water tank with plain water and drain to the bulk of any water line antifreeze.
• Replace drains and add 1 quart of plain chlorine bleach and fill with water
• Make sure all faucets and other water appliances, ice makers, etc are turned off
• Make sure that the water heater by-pass is set to fill the tank. (Normal operation)
• Turn on the demand pump.
• Run each faucet until all air is removed from the domestic system.
• Shut down system and listen to the pump. 
• If the pump cycles with faucets and appliances off there is a leak in the system it may be an indication of a leak in the system.
• Start with the pump fittings and check for leaks. A simple weeping fitting will flood your rig within just a few hours so take your time and make sure that all fittings are clear.
• If the pump continues to cycle after you have checked the system there may be a problem with the pressure settings in the pump itself.
• Drain the remaining water/chlorine solution from your fresh water holding tank.
• Refill the freshwater tank and run all faucets and appliances.
• Drain the tank again
• Fill the tank for the final time.
• Connect the city water connection and run all water appliances for a short period of time to perform a final flush of the chlorine residue.

Tip: If your drinking water hose(s) is showing it’s age fill a 5 gallon pail with about 4 gallons of water and a couple of cups of chlorine bleach. Soak your hoses n the solution for a couple of hours making sure that the solution enters the hose. Wipe the exterior of the hose when removing and run an ample amount of fresh rinse water through the hose. It’s a good time to replace the washers. Drain, Roll and store the hose when completed.

Lets go inside

Just as we performed on the outside start at one end of the rig and go to the other

• Check the condition of all the doors, hatches, hinges. 
• Check each LP appliance for proper operation.
• Check all window hand cranks or sliders for proper operation
• Turn on the refrigerator and let it run overnight and check the temperature the next day
• Run the heating system and fans
• Check the operation of the hot water heater.

Plan your trip

This guide has given you an idea of what to look for now it’s time to plan your first trip and enjoy the fruits of your labor and a great RVing season.